The questions about what the heck Detroit-style pizza is can now be answered by locals.

We were among the first to get a taste of Natick’s new Square Mfg. Co.‘s Detroit-style pizza and fixings during the eatery’s soft opening this week at 935 Worcester St. (Rte. 9 West) at a space formerly occupied by a Pizza Hut. Square Mfg. is initially offering takeout upon its soft opening on Dec. 4, but hopes to add delivery soon.

We took advantage of a friends and family offer, bringing home three small pizzas, breadsticks, a salad, and cookies—the only item not delivered in a box. Most of their small pizzas go for between $13-$15 and large ones for $22-$25.

 

As someone with a tomato-free diet, I typically avoid pizza, but was pleasantly surprised to see Square Mfg.’s pizza menu divvied up between “Red sauce on top” and “No red sauce.” I ordered a white one with bacon on it, just to avoid any pretense about calorie concerns during this meal.

This was my first Detroit-style pizza, which Square Mfg. describes as “crispy on the edges but fluffy on the inside, just like Detroit.” I’ve only been to Detroit once, to catch a couple of Red Sox-Tigers game during the Pedro Martinez era, so I can’t speak expertly about the city. But I can vouch for the pizza being crunchy on the outside and airy on the inside. I was definitely more into the inside than outside, but found the pizza quite tasty and gobbled down all six pre-cut squares from my small pizza in one sitting.

My dinner mates choose plain cheese and veggie pizzas. They too enjoyed their entrees, citing the fresh elements of the veggie pizza, including bell peppers, roasted tomatoes, and mushrooms (we asked to hold the broccoli). The Big Cheese pizza blended parmesan and ricotta, plus herbs, with sauce on top. My dinner companions enjoyed the the cheese-infused crunchiness of the edges, and even the touch of carbon flavor. “Fight your friends for the corner pieces,” my wife says.

Pizza options on the menu also include Cacciatore, Buffalo Chicken Deluxe, and more, including make your own.

We started with breadsticks flavored with fresh herbs and a cheese blend, with sauce on the side. At first we weren’t sure when we opened the box if we were looking at the white pizza, but quickly enough it became apparent that these were the sticks and they were more bread-like than stick-like. But flavorful and filling. Between the breadsticks and pizzas, we’ve got leftovers for breakfast or lunch.

We were pretty much stuffed from the pizza and appetizers, so barely made a dent in the huge, round and thick chocolate chip cookies ($4 apiece) that came with the meal. Even our 20-year-old only made it about halfway through his…but he will return to it.

And I imagine we’ll return to Square Mfg. as well.

Owner Kris Gullapalli, who lives nearby, says plans are to open three locations over the next five years. She and her husband and fellow University of Michigan alum Kal Gullapalli have operated a variety of other businesses, from fitness clubs to European waxing spas.

Square Mfg., adds to Natick’s roster of well over a dozen pizza joints.

 

Soft opening: Friday, Dec. 4

Expected hours:

Wednesday-Sunday: 4 pm to 9 pm

Monday & Tuesday: Closed

Hours will be extended to 11am – 9pm as Square Mfg. builds out its team.

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We stopped into the The Bagel Table in Natick Center when the doors first opened at a time when they were still working out the kinks. During that maiden visit we were told there would be a 25-minute wait to make the sandwich of our dreams due to a back-up of orders in the kitchen, so we passed on that. But we left The Bagel Table impressed by the crisp interior design of the space and the staff’s obvious commitment to keeping customers and staff safe.

There’s plenty of distance in the large dining space between the four tables that can seat ten. And staff members were certainly on their game with the ingredients information. We keep a nuts-free home, and were assured—accurately—that the cinnamon strudel muffins that caught our interest were made without nuts. They also were sure to inform us that the muffins were made in a facility that was not nuts-free, information that was very appreciated so that we might make our ordering decisions accordingly. We left with a bagful of the not-too-sweet goodies, and every crumb was devoured at home. Fresh bagels are also available (of course), and they were doing a brisk business in custom-roast coffee orders.

We vowed to return as soon as possible and try out the roast turkey sandwich that sounded so good. On our second visit the service was just as friendly, and this time the kitchen hummed with efficiency. In no time we had our roast turkey sandwich, made to order all toasty-warm, with a generous amount of high-quality turkey. A side of potato salad was a welcome addition that made our lunch complete.

Other menu items include: specialty bagel sandwiches; a wide variety of breakfast sandwiches; lunch sandwiches such as BLTs, Italian combo, chicken salad, pastrami, tuna salad, and ham; green salads; and a gorgeous array of breads and baked sweets.

Local celebrities also have apparently discovered the place. While picking up my to-go bag, I exchanged greetings with Ben Greenberg, owner of Debsan Decorating Store in Natick Center.

RESTAURANT: The Bagel Table
ADDRESS: 9 South Main St., Natick, MA 01760
PHONE: 508-545-1809
HOURS: Open daily for breakfast & lunch seven days a week:
Monday-Friday: 7am – 2pm
Saturday & Sunday: 7am – 2pm
OTHER: The Bagel Table has three additional locations, in Ashland, Boston Landing, and Chestnut Hill. Next on The Bagel Table’s quest for word domination: a Wayland location, expected to open in 2021.

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