First taste of Natick’s Square Mfg. Detroit-style pizza

The questions about what the heck Detroit-style pizza is can now be answered by locals.

We were among the first to get a taste of Natick’s new Square Mfg. Co.‘s Detroit-style pizza and fixings during the eatery’s soft opening this week at 935 Worcester St. (Rte. 9 West) at a space formerly occupied by a Pizza Hut. Square Mfg. is initially offering takeout upon its soft opening on Dec. 4, but hopes to add delivery soon.

We took advantage of a friends and family offer, bringing home three small pizzas, breadsticks, a salad, and cookies—the only item not delivered in a box. Most of their small pizzas go for between $13-$15 and large ones for $22-$25.

As someone with a tomato-free diet, I typically avoid pizza, but was pleasantly surprised to see Square Mfg.’s pizza menu divvied up between “Red sauce on top” and “No red sauce.” I ordered a white one with bacon on it, just to avoid any pretense about calorie concerns during this meal.

This was my first Detroit-style pizza, which Square Mfg. describes as “crispy on the edges but fluffy on the inside, just like Detroit.” I’ve only been to Detroit once, to catch a couple of Red Sox-Tigers game during the Pedro Martinez era, so I can’t speak expertly about the city. But I can vouch for the pizza being crunchy on the outside and airy on the inside. I was definitely more into the inside than outside, but found the pizza quite tasty and gobbled down all six pre-cut squares from my small pizza in one sitting.

My dinner mates choose plain cheese and veggie pizzas. They too enjoyed their entrees, citing the fresh elements of the veggie pizza, including bell peppers, roasted tomatoes, and mushrooms (we asked to hold the broccoli). The Big Cheese pizza blended parmesan and ricotta, plus herbs, with sauce on top. My dinner companions enjoyed the the cheese-infused crunchiness of the edges, and even the touch of carbon flavor. “Fight your friends for the corner pieces,” my wife says.

Pizza options on the menu also include Cacciatore, Buffalo Chicken Deluxe, and more, including make your own.

We started with breadsticks flavored with fresh herbs and a cheese blend, with sauce on the side. At first we weren’t sure when we opened the box if we were looking at the white pizza, but quickly enough it became apparent that these were the sticks and they were more bread-like than stick-like. But flavorful and filling. Between the breadsticks and pizzas, we’ve got leftovers for breakfast or lunch.

We were pretty much stuffed from the pizza and appetizers, so barely made a dent in the huge, round and thick chocolate chip cookies ($4 apiece) that came with the meal. Even our 20-year-old only made it about halfway through his…but he will return to it.

And I imagine we’ll return to Square Mfg. as well.

Owner Kris Gullapalli, who lives nearby, says plans are to open three locations over the next five years. She and her husband and fellow University of Michigan alum Kal Gullapalli have operated a variety of other businesses, from fitness clubs to European waxing spas.

Square Mfg., adds to Natick’s roster of well over a dozen pizza joints.

Soft opening: Friday, Dec. 4

Expected hours:

Wednesday-Sunday: 4 pm to 9 pm

Monday & Tuesday: Closed

Hours will be extended to 11am – 9pm as Square Mfg. builds out its team.

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